Ollaytantambo
well, its been about a month since I have posted anything... Chinchero was absolutely amazing, I loved every minute of it. I stayed with a woman named Roxana, her husband Roberto, and their 8 year old son Ribaldo. After staying with them for so much time, I really felt like we were a little family. Ribaldo was just like a little brother.. and we loved and hated eachother just like siblings. I think he will miss me a lot, even though one time he was so annoyed with me for locking him out of the house while he was brushing his teeth outside, he hissed at me "sal de mi casa!" (get out of my house!) yeah. it was fun. For two weeks I taught English for two hours every morning at Ribaldo's school. I really enjoyed teaching, all of the kids were amazing and so excited to learn... except for the first graders. They were brats. Every day I had weaving lessons for 4 hours with Roxana. I have lots of cool things that I have made, all partly incomplete, but I have all of the materials to finish them at home. I had a cord, three belts, a scarf, and a manta (like a small blanket), all in the making. Right now I am staying at probably the dingiest hostel in Cusco, for 5 dollars a night. It's 16 dollars a night to stay with your host stay family here, and I wanted to save some cash.. so basically Im living in a dungeon. But its in a cool area with interesting things, its safe, and relatively clean. Monday our whole group is going to reunite and we are off to Ollantaytambo, the town where we had orientation. Full circle! We are there for four days, and everyone is going to present their experiences and party like crazy for the last time. Im excited and nervous for my 30 minute presentation in spanish, and excited to see everyone else's presentations. My program ends May 20th (so soon! ahh!) and on the night of the 20th I am off by bus with Kate, Katie, Marge, and Carolina. We are travelling to Buenos Aires via Bolivia. Im excited for the three day bus trip (ahhh) and for of course, our final destination! We all have friends in Buenos Aires right now (I'm going to see Dave and Leah!) and we are going to see the sights and whatnot. We only have 5 short days in Buenos Aires, but we think it is worth it. We found a cheap flight from Buenos Aires to Bolivia, and we will bus back to Cusco from Bolivia. And I will be on my way back to the U.S. on June 1st. Oh my. I'm so sad to leave, but also excited to see everyone back home, and to work in Vermont this summer. There are so many things I am going to miss about Peru... the people, the food, art, cheap things, friends from my program, Chinchero in general... so much more but I can't reminisce and get nostalgic right now because I have to finish this damn paper and get my presentation in order. Just letting you all know, I'm here, I'm alive... love you all. more updates later!
tomorrow morning i leave early to go to chinchero, where i will be for the next 3 weeks or so. kindof nervous and excited at the same time. life is a lot slower in the campo, which can be really nice and relaxing and interesting, and then just really.... slow. oops have to get off the computer, but there will be internet in chinchero.. expect an update once in a while.
feliz pascua a todos! i am a little bummed out today because after today i will not see my group for a month... which is what i want to do but it will definetely be a little sad at first. on wednesday im getting up early and hauling away with my belongings to a small town called chinchero, about an hour away from cusco on bus. there i will live with a woman named roxana cusacuni and her husband and son (both named roberto). every monday through saturday for the next 3 and a half weeks, roxana will give me knitting lessons for four hours, 9 to 1. Some days we will work in her house and other days we will work in the collective with the other women (excuse me, and two men). at the end of the month i will return to cusco to meet up with the whole group, and then we are off to Ollaytaytambo (where we had orientation) for five days to do our presentations. how the time has flown! Despite the fact that i am sad about not seeing everyone for a while, i am excited to be in a place where i will have zero opportunity to speak english, and i will be working on a project that is just my own. woo! i am nervous about the cold (winter is coming and it is apparently colder in chinchero than cusco...) and the fact that i will be sleeping on the cold floor with my sleeping bag. all worries aside, i can´t wait. i have no idea if there is internet in chinchero, so i don´t know if i will be able to update or not. im guessing there is internet, because chinchero attracts the tourists with all of the knitting stuff, and i know there is a hostel. hmm. we´ll see. i think i will venture to cusco a few times during the month to get books, supplies, and to see the two girls who are doing their projects in cusco, katerin and grace. almost everyone is going to lima. marge is going (project on the afro peruvian community), caro (nutrition), sam (soccer), alison (gay community), kate (urbanization and ruins), chris (elections), shana (japanese community), and dani is going for part of the time to do her project on the jewish community, she is also going to trujillo. grace is doing a translation project in cusco, and katerin is doing something on bilingual education. there are four crazy kids going to the rainforest, katie aka pishtaco to do a photo project, alina to do something with women´s health, charlie with shamans, and joseph is going to study how everyone else´s projects affect the people in the rainforest. and i am all by my lonesome in chinchero, to do my knitting project. i am not 100% clear on what my main point of investigation will be in chinchero. i was going to do something about how tourism affects the products of the knitters, and what happens when i (a tourist) learn how to knit with them and make their products. but, i might be changing my mind to doing more of a testimony of life in chinchero with a photo essay, the products i will (hopefully) produce, and a written essay. we shall see! This past week has been Semana Santa (duh), and there have been a lot of interesting events and processions in Cusco. On Good Friday, there is a tradition of eating 12 different plates of food for lunch. It was crazy! The plates of food were smaller than usual but it was still a ton of food. We ate:
Last night we got back from our two and a half week trek around Peru. We started in Lima, and then continued on to Puerto Inca, Nazca, Arequipa, and then to Colca Canyon. I wrote an update in my journal while I was in Colca... here it is...
do we have watermelon gatorade in the united states? I tried it for the first time here and it is delicious! Anyway. I am in Lima, the capital of Peru. So far I really really like it. I was expecting the worst because everyone in Cusco says bad things about Lima. That it is dirty, dangerous, ugly... So I was pleasantly surprised by this big, bustling, beautiful city. It is such a refreshing change from Cusco. Cusco is small and beautiful, but also incredibly touristy. We are finally in a city that is just like, well, a city. Everyone is just going around doing their thing, not trying to sell us handicrafts or get us to eat in their trendy cafe. It´s nice. It is also on the coast, so it is warm and humid (which I have missed), and sunny. I sadly can´t go swimming in the ocean here due to the foot situation, but apparently I shouldn´t anyway because the part of the coast that we are near is incredibly polluted and choppy. I do have good news regarding my cast situation! I had it removed. Yep. I went to the doctor who put it on the day before we left for Lima (Thursday) and asked him if there was anyway I could get a walking cast instead. He said yes at first, and then told me that he has no idea where to get a walking cast in Cusco, and that no one uses them. Well. He told me he would cut it off anyway, and I told him to. It felt good to have my right foot liberated, but it also hurt still. My foot felt vunerable, and still unhealed. So I left the doctor with an ace bandage and my crutches, wondering if I made the right decision. We took a plane to Cusco yesterday, and arrived around 9:30 in the morning. We got situated in our swanky hotel, more like a house, called the Inka Wasi, run by this young guy who basically sits around and smokes pot all day and watches TV. I have no idea how he runs this cool place but he does, and it´s nice. We went out for a lunch of pure seafood, which was welcomed by all of us. Ceviche is the best, its raw fish that is cooked only in lemon juice. Delicioso. Halfway through lunch my foot starts hurting, and it increased to searing pain. By the time tears were running down my cheeks, Irma decided to take me to the hospital. I think most of the pain was due to my ace bandage being too tight (funny now, painful then) and I was given a shot. We talked to a doctor and he told me that yes, I could get a walking cast. Finally. So we went to an orthopedic store to check it out. I have never seen so many people with only one leg at one time. There were small children, adults, older people... it made me really happy and thankful that I have all of my parts working well, and reminded me that torn ligaments are nothing. So I am now sitting here with a massive black boot on my right foot. It has all of these buckles, think a large rollerblade, that´s what it looks like. It is really comfortable and most importantly REMOVABLE! Meaning I can shower and swim. Well still can´t swim here bc the beaches are rocky and not sand, but next week we are going to a nice beach and I can´t wait. Yess. I am supposed to still use crutches for the next 10 days, and then hopefully I can start walking on my cast. My goal is to be walking normally by the time we get back to Cusco in 2 and a half weeks. Wish me luck. Thankfully we have a wheelchair here so I have been travelling in style in the streets of Lima. Around the house and small distances crutches are fine, but for long distances I need the speed of my chair. It is really nice, but I still feel weird counting on people to push me, etc. Maybe I am just noticing now because I am in one, but there are a lot of people in wheelchairs here. Today we traveled around and saw the sights in Lima. We went to the Palacio de Govierno, it was pretty beautiful. I felt like I was on my eighth grade Washington D.C. trip all over again, but this was prettier. We also went to the Museum of the Inquisition, and saw torture chambers that the Spanish used. Scary. We then went to Chinatown and had a blast! Yummy chinese food lunch (Peruvian influenced and lots of fish), then looking around at all of the shops. We went to this hidden away shrine and lit incense and looking at chinese medicines, many illegal where we live. We tried to get something for the ligaments in my food, and the guy looked at us like we were crazy and asked if I wanted something to lose weight. Thanks sir. One thing that I like about most Peruvians (and what also took some getting used to,) is that they say it like it is. I have realized that we sugar coat a lot of things in regular conversation in the U.S., and tell a lot of white lies, usually to protect people´s feelings. At times I think that´s important, but I also like the straightforwardness in Peru. Anyway. We later had a class about the Chinese population in Peru in a chinese school. Very interesting, but also very hot and in a dim room and everyone was trying to not fall asleep. And here I am, about a block from our trendy hotel, in an internet cafe. Last night we had a class on the Afro Peruvian community in Lima, followed by a brief music and dance concert. It was great. Tonight we are going out for ice cream (apparently the best I will ever have...) and relaxing. Oh! Vanessa´s visit was so fun. We had lunch at home, and then later went out to San Blas to look around. We went to the amazing coca shop, and tried chocolates, toffees, and biscuits made with coca. Vanessa bought some chocolates and powder and apparently made it to the U.S. without any problems. It is so frustrating that we can´t bring coca leaves back home. It makes amazing tea, and has a bunch of other uses. There are obvious drug trafficking issues, but the amount of leaves a person would use for tea or cooking could not make cocaine. It is very frustrating, and coca rights are still being fought for here in Peru. Coca is such an important part of the traditional culture, and many people don´t recognize it. Stupid drug dealers. When we went to the island of Taquile, my host father was telling me about the importance of coca. He mentioned that he had a friend who brought him actual cocaine once, and how he tried it. It was so interesting hearing this from someone in such an isolated place. He had absolutely no stigma attached to taking the drug, and talked about it very openly. He didn´t like it, but he said it made him knit fast. Anyway... after the coca shop Vanessa and I went out for crepes at the German place, and then to the hooka bar. Our group had to go to the bar for a class. It was less of a class and more of an activity, listening to a rock group perform in Quechua. It was really good, and we all danced. And yes all includes me, in my former bright green cast. I was careful mom, don´t worry. Everyone was doing the cast dance, just like on Saved by the Bell when Screech and Lisa won the dance competiton! It was great. After the concert we went to a discoteca where a group was playing salsa music. We danced some more, I had to sit out a lot due to my foot, but it was fun. Random Quechua fact... Jaba the Hut speaks Quechua in Return of the Jedi. Yep! Some guys on the plane from Cusco to Lima told some people in my group, and the hotel that we are staying at happens to have a copy of the movie. We watched it, and it was mind blowing. We understood what Jabba was saying! It´s not a made up language! Unreal. Well I think that is it for now... We are going to be in Lima for a little over a week, and then we are making our way by bus to Arequipa, then Colca, and Nazca. We will be back in good old Cusco in a little less than three weeks. Expect updates later. Ciao!
woowooowoo! Vanessa is here (sitting next to me, actually...) and it is so nice to have her here. We met up in the Plaza de Armas today after my classes, and she came over to have lunch. She speaks Italian but not much Spanish, so she understands but I am little like her translator. It is fun. We had a delicious lunch of crema (puree soup made with pumpkin, yum...), choclo and queso, and rice and chicken with a great sauce. Right now we are relaxing after a massive lunch and we are going to go out soon for some coca ice cream and then off to Quechua rock! What a day. I will post pictures later. Bye!